Down Time

I’ve had a month worth of downtime since I returned from Spain and it’s starting to really get to me.  I’ve continued to climb inside and outside here and there (although it’s been a couple weeks now), but I haven’t really been training.  Having some down time is crucial: it allows the body to fully recover after it’s been through the ringer, allows the mind to recharge and allows you to do other activities outside of climbing.  Usually after I take some rest, I come back and feel stronger and more motivated, which is always a positive thing.  The process of relaxing and taking it easy is difficult for me after the first day or two…so you can imagine how I feel after a month of this.  I’m ready to get back to training and am in the process of creating my plan.  For 2012, I plan on competing in the ABS National Championship and the SCS National Championship with the ultimate goals of qualifying for the IFSC Bouldering and Lead World Cups in Vail and Atlanta respectively.  In addition, I want to travel to Paris for the IFSC Lead World Championship near the end of next summer.  My mental game feels recharged and my body feels ready to begin training again.

During my downtime, however, it’s important for me to continue doing things that I love and don’t do nearly as often as I would like to so I’m able stay engaged (in the resting period) and don’t end up in the gym training (which is entirely possible with how my brain works).  My mom got me a Canon SLR nearly 2 years ago and I love to take photos of our environment.  Part of me wishes I were a professional photographer…but I don’t have the time to pursue that at the moment…so in the mean time I just play around.  Check out what I’ve done:

Cheyenne playing in the ocean


Seaweed left behind

Broken perfection

Enjoy the weekend!


4 responses to “Down Time

  1. Great read, and really nice photos Chelsea! I especially like the photo of your pup runnning on the log..
    Im curious though with taking that much downtime off, dont you lose your hand and finger strength? Im still pretty new to climbing (5 months n goin strong!!) and from talking to the climbers at my local gym they all say thats usually the first thing to go..
    Im asking because through bouldering ive noticed little aches and pains around my body, (ie. Shoulder, stupid ring finger that wont heal!). Its not enough to stop me from climbing, but at the same time i wonder if i take any time off would i drop grades..?
    Im just now opening into the V5 grade n dont want to lose anything.. Any suggestions would be awesome! Sorry for talkin your ear off!! -Chris

    • Hey Chris,
      I’m glad you like my photos…I enjoy taking them and enjoy it even more when they turn out somewhat good.
      I took nearly a month off from training, but I was still climbing lightly. I think that unless you’re injured (or you’ve lost the excitement for climbing) taking a month off from climbing could and most likely would result in you feeling weaker once you return. Your base fitness & climbing experience, I believe, will determine whether you get it (finger strength, endurance, power, etc.) back quickly or not. If you’re feeling tweaky from bouldering, which I completely understand, I would take a week off to let shoulders and fingers recover. I feel like shoulders and fingers are the worst two things to injure as a climber so taking some rest and allowing for recovery would be more than beneficial to you. Think about this: If you’re feeling tweaky, wouldn’t you rather choose to take a break and allow your shoulder/fingers to recover and heal rather than to be forced to take a longer (3-12 months) break because you ended up blowing out your shoulder/pulley? Listen to your body.
      If you do decide to take a break to let those little ailments heal, I’d make sure to still stay active because it will help you feel better once you return to climbing.
      Good luck!!

  2. Very helpful advice. Thanks a ton Chels! See when i hear pros taking time off i always assumed it was for full blocks of time. I could see how climbing light for a few weeks could help greatly. I think im gonna hit the ropes for a couple weeks n see how it goes.
    Thanks again for the advice.. Always nice to get feedback from such an experienced climber
    Keep rockin out!@

Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in: Logo

You are commenting using your account. Log Out /  Change )

Google+ photo

You are commenting using your Google+ account. Log Out /  Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out /  Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out /  Change )


Connecting to %s